Having survived Osaka I come to the end of my victory lap around Japan. It wasn’t all grim, however. This week held host to one of the three biggest festivals in the country: Tenjin Matsuri. Technically it is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, a scholar, poet and politician of Edo period Japan, currently deified as a patron of learning and art. In practice it consists of a large parade with loud red-hatted drummers, hundreds of umbrella dancers and children leading an ox, culminating in a great show of river-based pomp and ceremony with fireworks and yet more drummers on boats.
There were crowds aplenty, especially next to the river. In 32 degree heat this was not pleasant, but I soldiered on somehow by eating far too much festival food and gawping at the attractions which seemed to involve catching goldfish, crabs and terrapins (not all at once) in incredibly shallow hand-nets. I stuck to the food lest I found myself unexpectedly burdened with a crustacean.
On my last day I rounded off the travels with a true air of finality by visiting the tomb of Bashō. This was actually a second attempt, as I had been caught out by Osaka’s cryptic train system and didn’t arrive until the temples were closed. When I finally made it it was raining with a thunderstorm on the horizon, which seemed oddly fitting. After a rather glassy-eyed ‘discussion’ with the local priest and much money thrown into every single shrine just in case I wrote a final haiku in the visitors book and, cradling my excellent mikuji, said my silent goodbyes before preparing for the next leg of my journey.